Hungarian Egyptologist uncovers the secrets of Taposiris Magna
Taposiris Magna: A Temple, Fortress and Monastery of EgyptPublished by Egypt Excavation Society of Hungary, 2004Hardcover, 223 pages
CAIRO: West of Alexandria, between the Mediterranean Sea and the freshwater Lake of Mariut, lays Abu Sir, home to the ancient town of Taposiris Magna. A tall tower still remains in situ, standing defiantly in the desert sands overlooking the ruins of the town’s monuments. Hungarian Egyptologist Gyózó Vörös was given the concession to excavate Taposiris by the government in 1998. Along with his team he unearthed layers of the town’s history: it’s origins as a temple resting on the burial place of Osiris (where one of the parts of the god’s body was scattered after he was dismembered by his brother Seth), a fortress during the Arab invasion of Egypt, and a Christian monastery.
In his book, Vörös chronicles the history of Taposiris as well as his team’s efforts to excavate its secrets and reconstruct the architecture of its past.
Pharaoh Ptolemy Philadelphos II founded the ancient city between 280 and 270 B.C. Along with Alexandria it was part of the Ptolemeic Empire. When the Ptolemeic era drew to an end, the town of Taposiris faded into the background. Dedicated to Osiris and Isis, the temple was mostly destroyed as a pagan shrine when a Christian church was built in the courtyard during the Byzantine era. There was a brief interest by Napoleon Bonaparte’s team of explorers after the emperor’s landing in 1798, but it was nipped in the bud after the French lost the battle of Abu Kir.
Since then, Taposiris Magna has enticed the curiosity of many Egyptologists who have been lured by its history.
At the turn of the 20th century, the director of Alexandria’s Greco-Roman museum, Italian Evaristo Breccia, was devastated by the burial of the city’s history by the modern port. He turned to the only alternative for understanding Alexandria, the only surviving ancient city in the vicinity that remained uninhabited, Taposiris. Breccia went on to document his excavations, but it remained unpublished.
Through an Italian Egyptologist Vörös was given access to Breccia’s manuscript, excavation drawings and site sketches, samples of which are included in the book. The sketches and notes reveal Breccia’s passionate quest to excavate the secrets of the temple. And it’s a passion that Vörös carries on.
Vörös, however, takes it a step further by trying to uncover the architectural footprint so that the temple can be resurrected from its burial ground in the lakeside desert. During the excavation, his team finally began to understand the foundation of its structure.
“. The temple’s ‘footprint’ came to light. But can a reconstruction be carried out from footprints? Can the reality of long-lost eras be conjured up anew? If our knowledge and [specialist] expertise is adequate, and we are in possession of physical items of evidence, then it can, writes Vörös, “which is not unlike those open to detectives or scholars of paleontology.
The book continues to take the reader through the discoveries, architecture and artifacts. Written in Hungarian, and subsequently translated into English, the narration does not flow smoothly, but the excitement with which he describes each discovery makes up for it. Vörös also includes excerpts from travelers, scholars and architectural historians to provide readers with background on Taposiris.
He transitions, abruptly, from describing the ancient temple of Taposiris, the scene of an annual celebration of the Ancient Egyptian Goddess of Isis, to the monastery that replaced it years later. This only heightens the historical significance of the site, how each layer of earth reflects a different layer of the region’s history.
And the site’s historical significance will continue. Today, which is the future’s history, the Coptic Church is planning to restore the Taposiris basilica. This is one of the more interesting chapters in Vörös’ chronicles, as he tells the story of how Hungarian architect Imre Makovecz maps out the new basilica while restoring and preserving the ancient temple. The architect’s thinking comes alive with his sketches and designs.
In Makovecz’s own words: “Our objective is to construct the church, the monastery cells and the temple of Isis, thus giving rise to a group of buildings which can expect widespread interest in Egypt as a blessed, holy place that has regained its historical significance and authenticity.
The construction and renovation of Taposiris promises to be another of the region’s fascinating tales.
“My goal was to give space for this beautiful world to come alive: the real of Taposiris Magna, more than two thousand years old, whose significance may become as great today as it was in ancient times, concludes Vörös.
And as the book reveals the passion of those uncovering the secrets, past and present, Taposiris does indeed come alive.
Gyózó Vörös is an architectural historian and Egyptologist. He was the director of excavations at Taposiris Magna from 1998 to 2004.
How to get there: Abu Sir is around 45 km from Alexandria on the western road, which passes between Lake Mariut and the sea. Taposiris Magna is on the southern side of the road.
