Andrea on El-Mariottiya canal road is a great spot for a weekend family outing
CAIRO: As soon as the weather shows signs of cooling down, on Friday afternoons families head in droves to Andrea on El-Mariottiya canal road. Lured in by the smell of roasting chicken, a casual atmosphere, and the promise of a donkey ride (for the younger children that is), families compete for a rare unoccupied rickety table.
The parents of today remembering going with their own parents some 30 years ago, and – beyond a few cosmetic alterations – not much has changed during the years (except possibly the children clamoring atop the great grandfather of the donkey they rode as a child). Though it’s still hard to explain exactly what continues to draw in the crowds.
The atmosphere is boisterous, and on the weekends it doesn’t vary much from the crowded playgrounds of the sports clubs that many try to evade. Children run riot, and so many parents vie for that choice spot next to the jungle gym. The setting is rustic, to put it kindly. The service is rushed and abrasive. It’s not uncommon to find a dog resting under the table. Even after all these years, they still provide rough tracing paper instead of soft paper napkins.
And yet, it still remains a top choice for a family outing.
Likely it’s a combination of the casual atmosphere and the great, inexpensive food. You can relax while your children run amok, knowing that there isn’t much for them to destroy. The outdoor seating area, with the wafting smells from the grill and the bougainvillea, is the ideal BBQ setting.
The menu is as casual as the atmosphere: a selection of starters, a variety of grills, and to wash it down a range of soft drinks or beer. The starters are a must, especially the tahina and baba ghanouh. Though not exceptional, they provide the perfect excuse to dip the freshly baked baladi bread (if you ask you can take a few extra loaves home with you). The chicken liver is delicious, and do dip the bread in to soak up the leftover sauce. The portions are small, so if you are a large group order several of the same dish.
Andrea built its reputation on its grilled chicken. As you enter the restaurant, rows and rows of chicken can be seen roasting over large coal grills. The chicken is good, and one portion is a generous half-chicken. Obscure threats of bird flu don’t seem to hinder patrons in the least. Waiters carrying large trays of chicken – whole chicken, filleted chicken, shish tawouk – unload vast amounts onto the plates of hungry customers.
If you’re feeling slightly more adventurous, the grilled quail and pigeon are equally tasty, if not more so. The quail is a personal favorite, sparsely spiced so as not to overpower the delicate taste, the grill leaving the skin light and crispy.
Alternatively, if you’re not in the mood for poultry, there’s grilled kebab and kofta, though neither could compete if it came down to a popularity contest.
For dessert, talk a short walk to the ice cream freezer (poorly situated near the entrance of the bathroom) where there is a selection of ice cream bars.
The prices are extremely reasonable, a full meal will cost about LE 50 per adult. The food dishes are inexpensive, but the management more than compensate with the over-priced drinks (a small bottle of water is LE 5).
A word of caution: there are many so-called Andreas around town, so don’t be waylaid by imitations.
If Andrea were to be summed up in a few words they would be “simple family fun.
Overall, a delicious meal, marred only by the brusqueness of the waiters and, at times, the loud wails of children playing and crying in the background. But let’s face it; if you have kids of your own, this is the best place to let them loose and still enjoy a family meal together.
Andrea59-60 Mariottiya canal roadTel: (02) 385 1133
