The policeman held his arm up to stop the relentless stream of cars racing down the Corniche in Garden City, and helped us walk from the Four Seasons Nile Plaza across the street to the Nile. The only sign hinting that we were heading to the right place were two large brass lanterns lighting the stairs heading down towards the Topkapi Loft. The announcement of the opening of this new Oriental-style restaurant had been making rounds on the web for the past couple of weeks, and we were intrigued.
Named after the Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, the interiors weren’t a surprise. For the most part, the décor was as original as it could be given that it was regurgitating an old theme. Brass lamps that can be found in Khan El Khalili shed the warm lighting. The room was dotted with plush divans surrounded by low floor cushions and pillows – pretty but not particularly comfortable seating for a meal. We opted for one of the standard tables instead – what they lacked in glamour, they more than made up for in functionality.
With Omar Khayrat music playing softly in the background, and the smell of shisha tobacco permeating the air, we opened the wooden boxes placed in front of us and unrolled – yes, unrolled – the menu. A quick glance through confirmed that the traditional Oriental dishes were on the roster. This didn’t preclude, however, some interesting surprises.
“The Sultan’s Creations listed a few unusual entries: “El Tesoro del Sultan, eggplant, pine nuts raviolis made by the Sultan to honor his charming Italian friend Annabella Fanfani Cannavaro. Ravioli?
One of the restaurant’s partners, well-known local restaurant entrepreneur Nicha Sursock, explained that the menu is basically Middle Eastern with some Turkish dishes. Since Topkapi is a conception of the same team that gave us the Italian pasta bar Mezze Luna, they decided to introduce their ravioli to Oriental cuisine. But, if that’s the case, then why chose an Oriental theme to start with?
“It’s a business strategy, Sursock told The Daily Star Egypt. “I have always wanted to do something Oriental. And Topkapi’s location fit the bill. Located within walking distance from The Four Seasons and The Grand Hyatt, it was ideal for drawing in the tourists.
So that explains the somewhat kitschy artwork.
We started with a selection of cold and hot mezzes (appetizers). Tasty, well prepared, but no surprises there. The Mohamara – a walnut, pomegranate dip – was especially interesting, though a tad bit spicy. The Kebda à la Omar Khayyam – chicken liver in wine sauce – was served sizzling.
Though it was tempting, we didn’t overindulge in the mezzes to leave room for the more intriguing main dishes. I chose the “Nicha-Bacha, named after Sursock, which is “chicken and dukka-filled ravioli in creamy molokheya sauce. I was skeptical. After all, molokheya is a time-tested dish that, I felt, could not be improved upon. Therein lies the problem. With expectations of traditional molokheya firmly embedded in my taste buds, it was difficult to objectively approach “Nicha-Bacha . The ravioli was tasty – though it was slightly overcooked, no al dente bite I’m afraid. The molokheya was good, though it had a touch of creaminess that was unusual. So I enlisted the opinions of my fellow diners and they agreed unanimously that it was good. For me, the jury is still out. Possibly if I didn’t have a preconceived notion of what it should taste like, I wouldn’t have had such difficulty. But it felt like a betrayal of all my molokheya values that I held near and dear.
Next time (and there will be a next time) I plan to try “Omar’s Chessboard, which is “crabmeat and shrimp ravioli created by Sultan Baija after he won a chess game against his friend Omar. Another interesting entrée.
A less controversial dish, the “El Tesoro del Sultan was hands-down delicious. The creamy yogurt sauce was delicate enough not to overpower the eggplant, pine nut raviolis. The unusual combination of pasta with Oriental flavors merged flawlessly. We agreed that we would definitely add it to our “recommended list. The char grilled veal kebab was another success. The meat was tender and had that alluring smoky taste.
The desserts on offer were typical: Om Ali and Eish El Saraya. Only the Osmanleya – Ottoman konafa nest with cream – was atypical. Our server recommended the Om Ali, possibly because the other desserts were not available, and it proved to be a good choice. The milk was creamy and the chef was generous with the raisins and coconut.
To accompany dessert we were given the choice of tea, Nescafe or Turkish coffee. A product of the booming Cairo coffee culture, we asked if they had Cappuccino or American coffee. Our waiter responded that they didn’t serve those options since they weren’t offered during the Ottoman rule. Only because he was evidently making a joke, I refrained from pointing out that Nescafe was also a fairly modern concoction.
Overall it was an enjoyable evening. Even though at first glance Topkapi seemed to resemble the Oriental-style restaurants across the city that catered to tourists and expats, it was only a superficial likeness.
Topkapi’s attention to culinary quality and exceptional service are unique. The prices were reasonable (we spent about LE 120 per person for appetizers, main course, dessert, and an alcoholic beverage) – a nice change from their overpriced counterparts.
During the evening, the Loft has a live DJ which is another unique feature. Starting around 9pm he plays Arabic music blended with chill out. As the evening progresses, he mixes a bit of everything until he switches to more fiesta-style beats after 11pm.
And, of course, you can’t match that location. There aren’t many places that can compete with the Nileside seating. On warm summer evenings, it will be a great place to enjoy a shisha and a beer.
Topakpi LoftIn front of The Four Seasons Hotel, Nile Plaza, (next to DokDok) Garden City, CairoFor Reservations call (012) 1229838
