Easter is the time to commemorate the rich history of Christianity in Egypt
“This area is called Tagamua’ Al Adyan, a shop owner proudly boasts, using the Arabic term for “The Gathering of Religions to describe Old Cairo (Masr Al Qadima).
Within the area of one square mile as many as twenty churches were built – though only five remain today.
A few steps away one of the earliest mosques ever built in Cairo, Amr Ibn El As, stands tall. And, following the fall of Jerusalem in 70 AD, the influx of Jews into the area is marked by the country’s oldest synagogue – Ben Ezra.
This small area is a fascinating reminder of Cairo’s history. If you want a real Easter treat this weekend, explore the evolution of Christianity in Egypt by visiting this small corner of the city.
The narrow road is dotted with signposts pointing to a number of landmarks. Walk through the walls of the Roman-Byzantine fortress and visit the vault where Jesus and the Virgin Mary hid from Roman soldiers.
Wander through the Coptic churches and soak up their rich history and traditions. Tourists overrun the area in the mornings; and on weekends and national holidays, Egyptians join the crowds. This only creates a sense of camaraderie as cultural and religious differences are set aside to share in a common appreciation for Old Cairo’s treasures.
The Coptic Orthodox Church is the oldest Christian church in Africa, and one of the earliest churches in the world. According to ancient tradition, shortly after Jesus Christ was crucified, Saint Mark brought Christianity to Egypt in Alexandria,.
But to learn about the history of Christianity in Egypt a visit to the Coptic Museum is a must. Boasting the largest collection of Coptic artifacts, plus the most significant collection of Coptic art in the world, it’s a good starting point.
Morcos Smeika Pasha initially founded the museum, and the first wing was built in 1910. The site was chosen for its propinquity to the nearby churches and the Christian cemetery.
The land was donated by the Christian Church under the presidency of Pope Kerolos V, who died in 1927, and his successor Abba Yuanis XIX in 1929.
Over the years, the museum has been expanded and more wings were added. Last summer, the most recent set of renovations were completed, and the exhibits were reorganized. The thought and care put into the museum are evident.
One need only take one step inside to learn why this museum stands out from all others.
There is no evidence of clutter. The lights are dimmed so as not to damage the pieces, but the natural light coming in from the central courtyard creates a radiant atmosphere. The walls are painted in bold colors, offsetting the artifacts beautifully.
Best of all, you are left to browse the exhibits at your own pace, without anyone forcing themselves upon you as a poorly informed tour guide. Thankfully, it’s all a far cry from the cluttered, crowded, noisy Egyptian Museum in Tahrir Square.
Gawdat Gabra, former museum director proudly notes that the glass showcases were manufactured in Egypt.
We used to import them from Europe and they were extremely expensive. One of our engineer contractors, Abdel-Raouf Youssri, has managed to produce them locally for a quarter of the price. They are beautiful, as you can see, and we are now competing with German companies, he told Ahram Weekly in an interview last year.
The exhibits are organized along themes. It’s hard to know where to start. Enter the museum, and turn left to tour the rooms in a counter clockwise direction. Then head upstairs for more treasures.
The collections on display are well marked, but with some 15,000 pieces to see, one requires more than one visit. But don’t rush. There’s a little less than 2,000 years of history to soak in.
Each icon, fresco or woven textile tells a story. Unless you know quite a bit about Coptic history, it’s difficult to see how each piece fits into the puzzle of time. If you’re interested in a more in depth tour – and can’t find a tour group that speaks a language you understand to tag along to – then invest in Gabra’s recently published paperback guide to the museum.
As Egypt s foremost Coptologist, he’ll give you a whole new level of appreciation for the collection on display.
The Old Wing is at the end of the tour, but take your time to appreciate its exquisite architectural features. The wooden ceilings, arches, and decorated tiles came from old Coptic houses.
They were incorporated into the structure of the building when Morcos Pasha first built it. The mashrabiya windows are carved in the original tradition of fixing the wooden pieces together without the use of nails or adhesive.
With the renovation of the museum, and building a connection between the two wings, the result is impressive: A museum that fulfils its purpose, which makes suitable use of available space, and which casts light on Egypt s major contribution to the world of Christendom, Gabra was reported to have said.
While the museum offers an academic tour of Christianity in Egypt, the nearby churches offer a more personal guide. The churches are as much a part of present Coptic Egypt, as they are of the past.
Just around the corner is the Hanging Church (El Kinissa Al Muallaqa) is considered to be one of the oldest churches in the area. Built on the ruins of two old towers of what remains of the Fortress of Babylon, the church is suspended over the road beneath.
It dates back to the 7th century, though there have been earlier references, and was dedicated to the Virgin Mary and St. Dimiana.
The Hanging Church is a live museum. Among the centuries old icons groups of school children are being given a lesson on the Christian Saints. Women approach the icon of The Virgin Mary – covered in plastic – to rub her for her blessings. A young girl slips a small scroll of paper, with her wishes written on it, into a glass case holding the relics of saints.
The history is steeped in history. If you approach the church administration, more often than not, you will find a willing volunteer. We recruited the aid of a guide who volunteered to show us around, proud of an opportunity to show off his heritage. He showed us the underground crypt through which church patrons could slip away to a tunnel that would take them to safety 7 km away.
Each icon and fresco had a story of its own. He pointed upward to the ceiling, and explained how the inverted wooden beams were built to represent the underside of an arc, reminiscent of Noah’s Arc.
The pulpit is built on 15 marble pillars. Fourteen symbolize the Twelve Disciples and Saints Luke and Mark. The pillar that stands in front represents Jesus Christ. We were told that it’s commonly misbelieved that the dark pillar represented Judas; the color was chosen to represent his betrayal of Christ.
Our guide, however, pointed out that all the pillars were of different shades of gray to represent the different races of the Disciples.
Again, years of history meant there was years of stories to tell. The church definitely warranted a few more visits.
Walking down Mar Girgis St., with its churches, vaults and the museum, is a fascinating walk down the history of Coptic Egypt. Easter is a good time to be reminded of the rich past that is often overshadowed by the city of a thousand minarets.
