Fishing on the banks of Cairo's Nile: A hobby, an addiction and a panacea

Ahmed Maged
8 Min Read

CAIRO: It was the fruit of a long wait for Osman, 40, who had been patiently waiting with his two fishing rods at Fom Al Khaleeg bridge in Cairo. Amid the clapping and halloos of his friends and some teens who had been watching, the man pulled one rod in which a “hanuma was hooked.

A few minutes later the upper end of his second rod started shaking, indicating another catch. This time it was a small fish known as “barbun.

But Osman was not the only one. Many other fishing enthusiasts were focusing intently on their rods while sipping tea or coffee. That day, however, Osman might have been one of the luckiest. Others had also been waiting expectantly, but their hopes were dashed as they only managed to catch a bundle of river plants.

As darkness fell, it was impossible to keep track of everyone. The number of enthusiasts increased and each began to exclusively concentrate on his line, even when the majority was sure that they would return home empty-handed.

The scene was like an Internet café, where each person is so wrapped up in their own world that interrupting them is only tolerated when absolutely necessary.

But this is a kind of hobby where the cost soars and the gain is small. Sometimes the fish is only as big as your little finger.

Fom El Khaleeg bridge is not the only place people gather to fish in Cairo. Many other river crossings, including those of Qasr El Eini, Manyal El Ruda, are also ideal for fishermen. But Al Sahel bridge remains the most popular location for fishing enthusiasts.

On weekends, you can see fishermen almost pushing each other out the way to secure one of the coveted spots around these places.

Some start an hour before sunset and get hooked until dawn. Others make it just after dawn prayers before they head to work. Although their lines, fibers, hooks and other gadgets are those of professionals, they are hardly what can be classed as professional.

Their passion for fishing can take them as far away as Upper Egypt, Qanater and different parts of the Delta.

But why is this a gainless deal? “Don’t ask me why, I just adore fishing in the same way others are crazy about sports or cinema, said Sayed, 26, who came along with his friend, carrying three fishing rods to try his luck.

Sayed added: “I am a tiling technician, but if you tell me there is a worthwhile fishing outing, I would immediately forget about work. If I don’t go fishing at least twice or three times a week, I wouldn’t be able to do my work.

Hassan, a retired army officer, come to Fom El Khaleeg almost everyday for fishing. “I live in Sayeda Zeinab and this bridge is the closest to my home, said Hassan.

“Before I retired, I used to go fishing on holidays and weekend. My fortunes went through ups and downs, all depending on where I went to practice my hobby. But now I just come to enjoy the view and smell the fresh breeze, he added.

“What’s your name? I asked as I ran into a quiet young chap in his early 20s, who sat minding his own business. But it seemed he minded revealing his own name. He said: “I am jobless and this is the only pastime for me. I don’t catch anything, yet I am a regular here.

For Hussein, 45, who comes every time with four rods from Qalaa where he lives, it’s a hobby, but for Sayed it’s an addiction. “Yes, if you’re crazy about something, this is an addiction. A fishing trip to Qanater had once cost me some LE 300, it was all that I had in my pocket. But I couldn’t resist it. ”

Hussein commented: “I agree, if you happen to travel to any “dour – in our jargon this means fishing place – you have to consider the cost of transport, the equipment, the bait that comes in the shape of mud-worms and also time, as you have to start early.

The enthusiasts vary in mood and initiative, depending on how much time they have to spend on their hobby. But they are unanimous in their agreement on one thing, the principle that they would never earn a living catching fish.

If it’s an average day, they carry their rods and head for one of the usual “dours. According to Helmy the best “dour in Cairo is El Masara on the Helwan Road. The water barriers on the sides of the Nile at Masara are made of limestone that breeds algae, attracting fish to shore.

Helmy also explained that Hawamdiya, on the outskirts of Cairo, an area known for sugar refineries, is also ideal. The refineries dump food remains into the water, which becomes natural bait for fish.

But Sayed warns that these trips are not always risk-free. “In Qanater and particularly at dour El Teban (Snake dour) many have lost their lives. The banana plantations surrounding the spot provide shelter for a big snake that has killed many people.

“Sometimes you can’t avoid being near deep water and if you don’t swim, anything can happen, added Sayed.

But when going out for a fishing outing in the city, some of the enthusiasts are selective when it comes to place. For them Al Sahel is not the best place due to its proximity to many popular districts.

“At Fom El Khaleeg you get doctors, judges, legal consultants, officers as well as workers from every walk of life, said Abdu, a coffee shop attendant who has served Fom El Khaleeg’s enthusiasts for the last six years.

He added: “This is the only hobby that brings together the poor and the rich, the educated and the illiterate. Summer is the ideal time for all of them. Some have got to know each other at this very spot. They have continued to meet each other there.

Abdu notices when his clients arrive and calls out to greet them. Whenever anyone turns up, he knows their drinks and immediately responds without being ordered. He instantly identified an old woman as a newcomer.

“This is my second time here, she said. “I am getting treatment at Qasr El Eini hospital. When I finish I come here; it is a perfect place to relax for someone like me who has suffered a lot in her life.

She said jokingly as she turned to one of the enthusiasts, “Give me a small fish. By the way, could you show me the difference between a male and a female fish?

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