It is the print of the Scots and geriatrics, slightly formal and often derided as being wholly ‘uncool’ for young fashionistas; but today, plaid is back with a vengeance.
Yes the term is plaid if you reside in North America, but it is tartan if you are in Scotland or Europe. Plaid is a material that is originally wool, and patterned with horizontal and vertical, woven in, pre-dyed threads, resulting in a unique pattern according to the width of the colored threads and the subsequent color arrangements.
The origin of plaid, some say, cannot be wholly ascribed to Scottish tradition. Archeological excavations found samples of plaid remarkably preserved in Austria and dating back to about 100 B.C. More recently, plaid was used by Scottish clans to identify themselves by dress with a set plaid pattern that was determined by local weavers who used natural dyes prevalent in their respective areas.
Plaid patterns had an order of etiquette to them. Until recently, patterns identified with the royal British family could not be worn by non royal members, and it was seen as a grave offense to wear the plaid pattern of another clan. To have a plaid pattern was a mark of aristocracy, clan hierarchy or military patronage of the highest order. Yet today, plaid is worn by everyone, defying the stereotype of aristocratic associations and is both a mark of teen street fashion culture and haute couture.
Plaid became a part of mainstream fashion when catalogues in the Victorian and Edwardian era began to highlight plaid as a pattern and material that is accessible to both men and women. Previously a component of menswear, plaid was later infused in dresses, shawls and headwear. It retained an air of exclusivity until the punk trend in the 1970s.
At the helm of it all was Vivienne Westwood whose punk designs, worn first by the Sex Pistols, spoke of the discontent of British youth with the powerful ruling class. As an expression against what was deemed outdated, the use of plaid in high street fashion was a sign of opposition and rebellion. Coupled with ripped material, spiky dog collars, bondage leather and the subsequent eccentric fusion, plaid became the earmark of anti-establishment sentiments by its wearers.
Today, punks, older ladies and grandpas still wear plaid albeit each with a unique spirit. Seen on the catwalks for the fall and winter collections of 2008, plaid has been imbued with a spirit of both naughty and nice. Who can ever forget Sarah Jessica Parker’s take on plaid which she wore as a top layer to her designer dress ensemble a while back? As a major trendsetter of the past decade, perhaps we could blame Parker for the resurgence of plaid. But we can’t blame her wholly for this interesting trend.
Her dress was designed by Alexander McQueen who often features plaid in his collections, and this year has seen designers and brands such as Lacoste, Y-3, Preen, and Yoji Yamamoto feature plaid in their various designs, and in various colors.
Gone are grandpa’s dark greens paired with brown corduroy pants. Today, plaid patterns in baby blue, white and beige, or bright reds and yellow with grey are everywhere to be seen. Designs are larger than life with long coats, exaggerated shawl and jumpsuit ensembles. Loose dresses belted at the waist are courageous fashion statements. But for the more subtle and cautious, plaid can be easily incorporated into daily wear.
Plaid can be worn as both casual and evening wear. For young women, a blazer paired with brown or navy slacks is the way to go. Keeping trousers and skirts understated will help one not to take this new trend overboard. Plaid dresses can always be paired with tights or high boots. A headband would also do the trick for those practically terrified of being consumed by the pattern.
It would not be wise to invest in a designer piece that you wouldn’t get much use from past the 2008/2009 winter season. A classic blazer could be worn for many years to come, as would a nice dress in soft colors such as caramel browns and pastel shades.
Preen and Ralph Lauren can always be counted on for ladylike designs, whereas House of Holland took it to the next level by incorporating canary yellow into the plaid weave and making it into a short mini dress.
A hat or belt would also do the trick of keeping things elegant and simple. Yet, sticking to classic colors is safe. Plaid patterned shoes, handbags and earrings are unique in their own right and if you want to take your cue from Dolce and Gabbana, you’d be making quite a statement in stepping out of the house fully clothed in plaid.
Red plaid for women is always sexy. Men s fashion also includes plaid, but all you guys out there beware; to avoid looking like you’ve just raided your grandpa’s wardrobe, pair a sleek plaid blazer with dark denim and sneakers or else risk looking archaic.
