The latest addition to Cairo’s dining culture describes itself as homemade, fresh and American. The fact that the venue claims to specialize in American cuisine brings to mind popular chains like Chili’s and TGI Fridays, neither of which are particularly celebrated for their homemade freshness. So it is this impression — reinforced by the faux-brick walled interior — which a potential patron must get over. This reviewer’s recommendation: get over it now.
Blackstone Bistro is quite large, occupying two floors of the building immediately behind the Sofitel Maadi. Awash in soothing beiges and browns, it becomes immediately clear that the interior design took up quite a sizeable chunk of the start-up budget. Wooden chairs and tables are immaculately and simply set with light beige napkins and spotless cutlery, while the walls are adorned with Egyptian photographs, alternated with iconic images of Americana.
After placing our drinks order, we were given a few minutes to peruse the extensive menu. This is one area that does not inspire confidence — at 15 pages long; one can’t help but feel a little lost. Items that catch the eye include the grilled rib eye, Seared Ahi tuna steak with Wasabi oil and the Jamaican jerk burger. We opted for the classic burger, grilled rib eye and a starter of French onion soup. Dessert orders were also placed: maple rice pudding, warm apple crumble and crème brûlée.
The first inkling that there was substance to all the style was the complimentary bread basket. This bread was astounding — La Gourmandise good — and freshly baked on the premises by the executive chef himself every morning. Not 10 minutes later, the French onion soup (LE 19) arrived, and it was the best that we’ve had in recent memory.
Peppery sweet, deep dark and rich; it hit all the right notes. Granted, the cheese used was a mozzarella and not the classic Gruyere; but it was still deeply satisfying.
Perfectly timed, the burger (LE 45) and rib eye (both ordered medium) arrived. The burger comes with a side of Blackstone fries, which is a combination of deep-fried potato, sweet potato and beet frites. The resulting grades of color are both appetizing, as is the palette of flavors.
However, the burger was not as special as the fries, but there is no denying that it is arguably one of the better burgers available in Cairo.
The US beef rib eye steak (LE 115) delivered robust beefy flavor, accompanied by the wonderfully crunchy and floury potato wedges. All in all, the dish was a bit too rich, and definitely could use a side of a sharp tangy sauce to cut through it all.
Barely enough room was left to enjoy the dessert selections; since the portions are American-sized. The house-recommended maple rice pudding (LE 26) escaped mediocrity solely through the addition of caramelized walnuts, which were a delight to eat and reminiscent of caramel popcorn. The apple crumble had good intentions, but barely elevated itself above coffee-shop fare. The revelation was in the crème brûlée (LE 35), a decidedly un-American and not your typical homemade dessert, yet it possessed such creaminess and lucidity of flavor; even a full belly could not stop us from devouring it.
A three-course meal for one person will reach around LE 208.
At the time of this review, the restaurant was half-full with boisterous groups of diners, all drinking and eating merrily. And though food snobs may claim the restaurant’s atmosphere is soulless; we think it’s the atmosphere of a great neighborhood restaurant.
Best bit: Two words: crème brûlée! Bread basket!
Worst bit: The menu is too large and convoluted for comfortable navigation. The English muffin was quite inedible, though the formidable bread basket more than compensated for that.
360 Tip: Blackstone Bistro also offers breakfasts, and from what we’ve read, it can give Lucille’s a run for its money as Cairo’s Breakfast King. Try the brioche French toast or the eggs Benedict for a rarefied breakfast option. A Zamalek branch will open in October.
Address: 4, Ali El Kordy Street, Behind Sofitel Maadi Towers, 25281661.
This article was contributed to Daily News Egypt by Cairo 360 http://www.cairo360.com/
