Sometimes, it’s not about the food. Yes, I really do mean it.
Sometimes it’s worth schlepping all the way to Alexandria on the train for the day to eat ice cream at Gelati Azza, because having two paper-thin wafer cones topped with gelati wrapped in butcher paper and served to you horizontally is worth the experience of standing there and fumbling with its awkward yet fun “rocket” shape as it’s called.
You do not enjoy the lemon gelati that lacks a zesty aftertaste or the (too mild) punch of chocolate per say, but what does happen in those five minutes while you’re eating your ice cream? The world suddenly slows down as you look at Alexandria’s Qait Bey Fortress, the Mediterranean sea and the Greek Club.
There’s something so nostalgic about eating ice cream wrapped in butcher paper, and it’s worth making the trip to Alex just to experience that moment of stillness as you sit staring at the sea and enjoy its taste.
It’s not always easy to find a moment of calm in Cairo, particularly when trying to enjoy a meal in a restaurant. Yet, last week, me and a group of friends managed to have a relatively quiet meal in the middle of El-Hussein, what is referred to as Islamic Cairo.
Just behind Al-Azhar Mosque lies a square with old houses, restored to serve as a cultural space and gathering spot. Beyt Zeynab Khatoun, first built in 1468, stands next to Beyt El-Harawy which was built later in 1731. It was here in Beyt El-Harawy, housing a prominent oud learning and performance center in addition to a restaurant, that we had iftar.
To reach the restaurant, we stepped inside, past the kitchens and tiny bathrooms that were no bigger than a broom closet, past the shisha preparing station, and wound our way up a flight of stone slab steps to get to the large terrace overlooking the square.
At sunset, as the light took on a soft hue and the minarets around us rang out the call for Maghreb prayer, we broke fast with a meal that is not worth writing home about. Seeing as we were a large group, it was decided beforehand that we’d select a set menu of chicken vermicelli soup, a mixed grill platter and some assorted starters. The menu contains lighter fare including sandwiches and pizzas though we didn’t try those.
The smell of smoke wafting up to the terrace from the kitchens and grills below was a bit overwhelming at times, but as we sipped on cold sweet karkade and took in the view, we were ready for whatever would be served. We sat on couches and pillow rests, traditional Arabic furniture painted brightly, quite charming on a terrace which was restored to contain beautiful carved wooden details. In the center of the terrace was a dome made of colored glass, and the etchings in the ceiling all made for a very picturesque setting for iftar.
Fresh-baked loaves of pita bread were set in the center of our tables, and as we ate, we gradually became the loudest guests. There was too much politically-speaking for a group of active tweeters not to discuss or make light of, and with good company, the moment couldn’t have been any better.
Quickly, it became dark and after paying about LE 80 per person, we headed downstairs to the central courtyard for shisha and tea. Again, we sat on pillows and woven mats on the ground. Tea came down quickly with sugar and cups containing marmiya (sage leaves), fresh mint and cardamom. Nowhere else in Cairo have I ever been presented with different tea pairings, and the sage made for a good woodsy blend.
Iftar at Beyt El-Harawy is great for large groups and for anyone who wants to have a slightly romanticized experience in El-Hussein before the market and surrounding area becomes animated again with all the typical, wonderfully crazy characters, light and noise.
If you manage to catch the last few days of Ramadan in El-Hussein, you can also catch some great Sufi music performances in Wekalet El-Ghouri, go browsing for various knickknacks in the bazaar or pray in any of the landmark mosques.
There always seems to be something for everyone at El=Hussein.
Beit El-Harawy: it’s easiest to get to Al-Azhar mosque and ask for directions from there. You’ll likely be directed to the central courtyard containing Beit Khatoun and Beit El-Harawy. Contact the restaurant’s manager Essam (012 127 0366) to make inquiries and arrangements.
