CAIRO: Except for its name and the memories of some of its old residents, there’s nothing Jewish about the “Haret El Yahoud (The Jews’ Alley).
Even the few synagogues that survived the passage of time, are now dilapidated and have been locked up for decades. None of them are open to the public.
Located in Old Cairo – just a short walk from Khan El Khalili and El Gammaliya district – what people refer to as an alley is actually a large area of ramified passages. It used to be a center for jewelry and gold workshops, but now the wide range of clothing stores and other commodities are tourist attractions.
Yet few are aware of the area’s history, including some of its visitors. The reasons behind the fading Jewish culture and the non-existence of Jews in the district are believed to encompass more than the Arab-Israeli conflict that started with the establishment of the Jewish state in 1948. Many Egyptian Jews had migrated to Israel at the time.
“Many of the shops you see around here as well as other jewelry and memorabilia outlets in Khan El-Khalili were owned by Jewish merchants, recalled Abu Shadi, a merchant who was born and raised in the Alley.
“Look, that shop next to me was owned by one man who manufactured razors. The other belonged to a textile expert who specialized in dying threads and strings, he added.
According to Abu Shadi, the Sabbath used to be observed on Saturdays when the quarter became deadly silent as all activities were suspended and no sound was heard except the ringing of the synagogues’ bells.
But the establishment of Israel in 1948, although it triggered the ongoing regional conflict, wasn’t the decisive factor in the erosion of the district’s culture.
Tawfik Hussein, another merchant, said: “Our rapport has definitely become strained with the Jews after 1948 but this was not drastically felt, as just a small number of them opted to stay behind.
“Their children were dispersed after some converted to Islam and Christianity. Some retained their religion but married Muslims and Christians. Interestingly, however, they continue to come back every now and then to visit their hometown.
The residents explained that of the12 synagogues that used to exist, only three are left in the quarter. To reach those three in the narrow passages was an adventure in itself.
Amar, an 11-year-old girl, was an eloquent guide to the synagogue facing El Adawi Boys School.
“Now, this should be called the Egyptian quarter, she said. “I saw the last Jewish woman who lived here. She died recently; she was an old lady who stayed in an elderly people’s home nearby. She prayed by muttering some words which I couldn’t understand.
The synagogues were old structures that had no signs, nor showed any indication of being Jewish worship houses.
“The synagogues that still stand today in the alley pale in comparison to the number that used to exist when the Jews lived here in large numbers. Most of these [synagogues] were pulled down to make space for new buildings, said Abu Shadi.
Only one located on the quarter’s main street – which appeared more like a house than a synagogue – stood out with the Star of David.
The garbage that has accumulated on their premises is proof that they have not been open for a long time.
Ahmed Qadri, one resident, said: “Initially two guards used to be appointed at each synagogue, but today the assignment is part of the police patrol’s duty.
Reports highlight that one of these three known as Moussa Bin Maymoun is one of the most important synagogues in Egypt besides Shaar Hashamaim located on Adly Street and Bin Ezra in Old Cairo, one of the oldest synagogues in the world.
According to news reports, 100 Jews still live in Egypt, most of whom are women. They frequent the synagogue on Adly Street on religious festivals, but due to the absence of a sufficient number of men, prayers cannot be held on a regular basis.
“Definitely our attitude has changed towards the Jews but one good point in their favor is that they are good traders. We have learnt trading from them. They were also known for helping any fellow merchant when he falls into debt, Abu Shadi said.
“When Zionist propaganda started warning Arab Jews against what might happen to them if they insisted on living in Arab countries, many of them fled to Israel and Europe, leaving behind property. Although some of the shops and houses are state-owned, the rent bills are still issued in the name of their original owners, he added.
“No one really knows what happened. Some of these [shops and houses] were sold, others were usurped or got new owners who laid hands on them using forged documents.
“At the end of the day the move came in the wake of a nationalization movement and if some people wish to be compensated, all other parties like land feudalists, business tycoons and others who had their businesses nationalized should be equally redeemed. This is almost impossible. It’s all history and we have to look forward to the future.
