A KHAWAGA'S TALE: What a week

Peter A. Carrigan
6 Min Read

There was a palpable energy this week on the streets of Cairo, as the African Cup of Nations climaxed. Cairenes fizzed like champagne and no place did the cork dent the ceiling more than in Harry’s Pub on Thursday night.

All of Zamalek seemed to be at Harry’s for the football game. The old Marriott watering hole was rockin’ and rollin’: adrenalin pumpin’ dancers, karaoke singers and euphoric football fans all barging around the dance space. It reminded me of a Texas country ‘n’ western bar, when the rodeo is over and the cowboys are letting off steam.

Earlier in the evening, I had dropped in on the Heineken promotion, which is staged for the Dutch community at La Bodega on the first Thursday of every month, where talk was of a possible storm brewing over the yet to be released 10-minute film by anti-Islam politician, Geer Wilders. The Dutch are worried about a Danish style media storm.

Sticks and stones. Western politicians, bishops and academics can not shut up about analyzing Islam. Religion, is it that interesting?

Leaving the Dutch to it, I braved the pre-match traffic to get out again to the InterContinental at CityStars for the closing of the tasty Australian Food and Wine Festival. Thankfully, the succulent steaks, yummy lamb and even pies are available all year round through gourmetegypt.com.

Though the Australian wine isn’t so easy to access, I was very fortunate to be invited to the ambassador’s residence for a tasting on Wednesday night, where I picked up two choice pieces of news.

Apparently, according to a Canadian diplomat, the island opposite TGI Fridays in Maadi is marked for development. The some thousands of residents are to make way for more malls and modern living.

The other tale was of the City of the Dead, which apparently has been closed to tourists. In particular bus tour groups, I am sure individuals can still move around the cemetery where tens of thousands of souls live. According to my diplomatic source, the decision has been taken because tourism authorities do not want Egypt portrayed in a bad light.

Tourists who visit the Nile valley come for adventure. Even if it is perceived adventure, they don’t want gloss. Tourists want to see a donkey cart and dip into the lifestyle of the locals.

If the closing of the City of the Dead was because the authorities didn’t want the residence exploited or put on show like animals in a zoo, then that would be commendable. Though trying to censor sites would seem to be short-sighted.

On Monday night it was an engagement of a different kind with Dr Barsoum, my dentist. Following which I dashed over to the Windsor Hotel before the anaesthetic wore off. The Barrel Bar, downtown oasis for generations, was closed to all for the filming of pop star Angham’s new music video. You can look into this further at Anghaam.com.

I did manage to chomp through Cairo’s best chicken shawarma in the adjoining dining room and got a glimpse at the 1980s superstar.

Of course, the coming week will bring Valentine’s Day. Don’t say you haven’t been warned, it is the 14th, Thursday. Get out of town, turn off you phone or set up a speed dating night. I am sure Harry’s Pub will be up for that, it seems the place is up for anything.

What has really bothered me though, before I remembered it was Valentine’s Day, was Americans trying to win hearts and minds in Iraq. They are the most hospitable and accommodating of people. It must truly be a mystery to them.

I was out at Cairo American College on Saturday; a beautiful spring day, where I was speaking to people about the Primaries. The Americans I spoke to were animated when talking about Clinton, Obama and McCain. All excited at the prospect of change. It would appear that all three leading candidates would be acceptable in one way or another.

The United States is my favorite place in the world to travel. I mean that. I love the geographical diversity, the cities and the space of the southwest. And it is a mystery why they have made such a mess.

I am waiting for my Obama button to put in my collection. I have campaign buttons going back to JFK and I am sure when my good mate Chris in Santa Barbara reads this, that button will be in the post.

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